Australia began as a British Penal Colony over 230 years ago

Depiction of the British landing at Botany Bay, Australia
Depiction of the British landing at Port Jackson, Australia, 1787

It’s no longer a well-hidden fact, nor even an embarrassment, that Australia was founded as the Botany Bay Penal Colony in the late 18th century.  But how exactly did an entire continent come to be settled by British convicts?

Botany Bay is an inlet on the eastern coast of Australia, just south of Sidney.  In 1770, the bay was discovered by the famous British explorer Captain James Cook in his ship, the HMS Endeavour. It was named Botany Bay because of the abundance of plant life noticed by the ship’s naturalist, Sir Joseph Banks.

A decade later, recently deprived of its American colonies, Britain was desperate to find another territory to ship its criminals to.  At the time, criminals were considered defective, could not be rehabilitated and must be in fact be separated from its law-abiding citizens.  So prisoners had to either be executed or exiled! Cook’s Australia seemed to fit the bill as it was inhabited by only native Aborigines and no other European power had established a colony.  Based on Captain Cook’s report, Botany Bay was selected by parliament.

The first fleet of 11 ships, filled with 736 convicts, set sail from England in 1787.

They sailed for 8 long months, around Africa’s Cape Hope of Good Hope, into the Indian Ocean.  Captain Arthur Phillip, a tough but fair naval officer, was in charge of the fleet and with setting up the first penal colony in Australia. The 736 convicts were chained beneath the decks for the entire hellish voyage.  While the journey claimed the lives of just 39 prisoners, later trips would see up to a third die of disease and malnutrition along the way.

Interestingly, only a small minority were hardened criminals convicted of violent crimes.  Women made up 15% of the convict population.  Those ships carrying females inevitably became floating brothels.  The poor women were exposed to varying degrees of degradation with younger women lined up for inspection.  The prettiest were taken to the officers’ cabins, while the others were thrown in with the all male crew.

Discipline aboard ship was brutal, with the crew themselves often cruel drunks, recruited from dockside taverns. Most were thugs who didn’t shrink from doling out the most brutal punishment on any convict who broke a rule. Dysentery, scurvy and sea-sickness were also rife, making conditions below decks most foul indeed.

The fleet of ships finally sailed into Botany Bay in January of 1788.

Upon inspection though, the large bay was deemed uninhabitable due to a lack of fresh water and marshy soil.  Captain Philip’s surprise and disappointment must have been palpable.  This is where they sent him?  What was he to do now, with 6 ships full of 700+ convicts?  Based on Cook’s records, he took the fleet up the coast next, landing 9 miles away at Port Jackson in Sydney Cove, six days later.  Here all worries vanished as Phillip had just discovered one of the finest harbors in the world.

The night the first male convicts started landing, 26 January 1788, the Union Jack was hoisted, a succession of volleys fired from the ships, many toasts of rum were drunk, and Captain Philip led his officers in three cheers of “HUZZAH!”  Australia Day commemorates this first landing of white settlers on the continent.

For the convicts who disembarked in Sydney Cove, that 1st Australia Day, it was a bit bewildering. Unused to land after 8 months below deck, they stumbled through the cove’s alien forest.  It was 2 weeks before enough huts could be built for the female convicts to leave the ships.  In the midst of a storm, they held the first Australian Bush Party – dancing, singing and drinking into the night.

Though no longer confined behind bars, the convicts still had an extremely rough life ahead of them. The guards who signed up for duty in Australia were driven by cruelty bordering on sadism.  Governor Phillip was strict and even small violations could result in 50 lashes with a cat o’nine tails. Blood was usually drawn after the fifth, so the conditions of their backs after 50 was more like raw meat.

The female convicts were often reported as low-class, foul mouthed women with loose morals.

But women were often imprisoned in Britain as a punishment for simply misbehaving to a man, or having illegitimate children.  At Sydney Cove, they were forced to perform the more menial tasks like sewing clothes or toiling over wash-tubs. Punishments for women was not the whip, but rather having their head shaved as a mark of disgrace.

So who exactly were all these convicts forced to “the Land Down Under?”  They were prisoners yes, but only a small fraction were dangerous murderers.  Most were common poachers or thieves, while others were radical Luddites, Catholic Ribbonmen or Scottish Jacobites.  Regardless, all were treated the same by Phillip.

Those early days were perilous as their food stocks dwindled and rations were frequently cut. It was only the arrival of supply-ships that enabled the colony to avoid starvation those first years.  Two more fleets arrived in what was now called New South Wales in 1790 and 1791. Now called “transportees” rather than convicts, the average age was 26, and also included children.

Plus they now included emigrants and their wives, attracted to dreams of a better life than in England.  

And it was not just the poor who headed down under.  Australia became a place where Britain sent unacceptable members of all its classes, including the gentry. It was an ideal place to send a young man who had gambling debts, or who wasn’t particularly good academically, or who had gotten the family maid pregnant. The famous author Charles Dickens sent his two sons to Australia!

Whether they arrived as convicts or emigrants, the settlers faced a forbidding, unwelcoming landscape. In a continent with little water and poor soil, growing crops proved extremely difficult. The western interior, or Outback as it came to be called, offered no great river and many yeomen who ventured there perished in the brutal desert.

Nevertheless,  in the end most stayed and endured.  The emigrants went out beyond colonial control and squatted on huge tracts of land. While farming was hit or miss, the settlers soon realized the climate was perfect for sheep.  The animals, both the wool and meat, would become a mainstay of the Australian economy.

As settlements expanded, they came into conflict with the Aborigines, who had lived there for thousands of years.

Map of Botany Bay and Port Jackson, 1790
Map of Botany Bay and Port Jackson, New South Wales, 1790

Phillip ordered they must be well treated, and anyone killing Aborigines would be hanged.  The natives considered the continent theirs, so they began killing the settler’s livestock … or the settlers themselves.  This is when the guns came out and British firepower ultimately won.  Frontier wars, massacres and the introduction of European diseases, devastated the Aborigines, much like the Native Americans.

In 1851, gold was discovered in New South Wales, sparking a Gold Rush similar to California’s. Melbourne went from a small fishing village to one of the greatest cities of the empire in just 20 years.  Gold brought wealth to the continent and hastened an influx of even more migrants. The Gold Rush also sparked the beginning of the end for convict transportees, due to a growing resentment from the new population.

Over the next 80 years, from that first fleet, more than 160,000 convicts were transported to Australia from England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales.  After 1868, when convict transfers ended, Australians tried to hide their founder’s legacy, considering it a disgrace and embarrassment. 

But over the centuries, Australia’s shame has been transformed into national pride. The truth about who the “convicts” really were has helped remove the stigma.  Some were just kids, some did little more than steal a bag of flour, some were political prisoners. Today, about 20% of Australians are descended from those founding convicts, including many of its most prominent citizens.

For more by historical writer Paul Andrews, click BOOKS.
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Nikola Tesla and his Wardenclyffe Tower

Tesla's Wardenclyffe Tower on Long Island, NY
Tesla’s Wardenclyffe Tower on Long Island, NY, 1903

Eccentric inventor Nikola Tesla had worked with the likes of both Thomas Edison and George Westinghouse.  He was already famous for his invention of the AC (alternating current) electric motor.  Why stop there?  His futuristic Wardenclyffe Tower was intended to be the first ever wireless power transmission station.  Tesla envisioned transmitting messages across the Atlantic using the Earth itself to conduct the signals. To better compete with Giovanni Marconi’s new Radio, he added the claim of worldwide wireless power transmission via the earth’s ionosphere.

“Using the Earth itself as the medium for conducting the current, thus dispensing with wires … a machine, working like a pump, drawing electricity from the Earth and driving it back into the same, thus creating a ripple which, spreading through the Earth like a wire, could be tapped at great distances.” 

Nikola Tesla

The Croatian born Tesla had a tumultuous career after arriving in the US as an immigrant in 1884.  He quit working for Thomas Edison after just 6 months and failed in an attempt to start his own electrical company (Tesla Electric Light). He then licensed his famous AC induction motor patents to George Westinghouse, giving up his royalties as well. At the 1893 World Columbian Exposition in Chicago, he helped Westinghouse demonstrate AC electric lighting, besting Edison’s DC (direct current).

The brilliant, insomniac, workaholic’s mind never ceased to stop spinning with ideas.  Today, he would have likely been diagnosed with OCD (obsessive compulsive disorder). The Serbian-American inventor soon left Westinghouse and formed the Nikola Tesla Company in 1895.

He demonstrated his wireless power at Colorado Springs, sending lightning bolts 135 feet into the sky from his famous high voltage Tesla Coil.

With this highly publicized achievement under his belt, Tesla made the rounds to investors, wining and dining millionaires at Delmonico’s restaurant in New York City. The wealthy financier J. P. Morgan agreed to invest $150,000 to build a wireless station capable of sending messages across the Atlantic Ocean to London.

Nikola Tesla and the Tesla Coil
Nikola Tesla demonstrating his Tesla Coil, 1901

In 1901, Tesla informed Morgan of his intent to increase the power beyond Marconi’s feeble Radio but needed much more money.  Tesla also believed his new wireless electric current would make the sky glow like the aurora borealis, thus providing night time lighting as well! This was met with skepticism by the shrewd Morgan, who refused to fund a single dollar more without proof of transmission.  Despite this, Tesla purchased 200 acres on Long Island Sound in the Wardenclyffe resort community.

He started construction on a 187 feet tall octagonal tower with a mushroom shaped metal cupola 68 feet wide, weighing a staggering 55 tons, plus an iron core extending 120 feet into the earth.  Beneath it was the power station and boiler room. This soon sprouted curiosity. What was Tesla was up to at Wardenclyffe that he kept secret from the public and the press?  He would respond matter-of-factly to questioning reporters, stating only that, “We have been sending wireless messages and power from this station for long distances for some time.”  In truth, he was under tremendous pressure from Morgan to deliver.

Then for a single summer night in July 1903, newspapers excitedly reported the mysterious Tesla Tower had finally come alive!

Shooting off bright crackling flashes of blue lighting out into the starry night sky, the effect was visible for a hundred miles, as far away as Connecticut.  In 1903, it must have seemed like something from a Jules Verne novel come to life.  The next day, no explanation of the fantastic display was forthcoming from the enigmatic Nikola Tesla or his staff.  Sadly, Wardenclyffe Tower never operated at full power again.  Tesla gave no explanation as to why. When Tesla requested more money from J.P. Morgan, the investor replied curtly, “I have received your letter, and in reply would say that I should not feel disposed at present to make any further advances”.

Tesla’s finances began to unravel as investor money flowed instead to Westinghouse and Marconi’s successful radio. The press claimed Tesla’s tower was nothing but an elaborate hoax. In 1904, he took out a mortgage on Wardenclyffe, and four years later a second mortgage. In 1905, his patents on alternating current (AC) expired, halting his royalty payments. His mounting financial problems, stifled his neurotic inventor’s creativity, leading to a deep depression, and ultimately a nervous breakdown.

People living around the odd Wardenclyffe Tower noticed the Tesla plant seemed to have been abandoned.  In 1915, when his backers demanded to know when they were going to recapture their investments, the inventor was unable to give a straight answer.  With Tesla unable to make any further payments, the banks foreclosed on the Wardenclyffe property.  Sadly, his bank demolished the historic tower and sold it for scrap iron in 1917. For years they lease the land to a photo products company.

Despite his many inventions and patents, the eccentric Tesla lived a near recluse’s life.  Towards the end of his life, he lived alone in a New York City hotel room at the Hotel New Yorker, feeding white pigeons out his window.  A strict germaphobe, he preferred to dine alone and never married.  In 1931 he was featured on the cover of Time Magazine for his 75th birthday. He died almost penniless in 1943 at the age of 86.  George Westinghouse had been paying his hotel bills. The main building of the Wardenclyffe Tower remains standing to this day out on Long Island.

A century later, billionaire Elon Musk would choose the famous inventor’s name for his new electric car company, TESLA. Today, there are thousands of Tesla vehicles on the roads of our planet, a fitting legacy for the brilliant if erratic inventor of the AC electric motor. Musk later adopted Tesla’s risk-inclined flair with his successful SpaceX rocket program.  I leave you with this parting thought in Tesla’s own words:

“Perhaps it is better in this immature world of ours that a revolutionary idea instead of being helped and patted, be hampered and ill-treated by selfish interest, pedantry, stupidity and ignorance; that it be attacked and stifled; that it pass through bitter trials and tribulations, only to emerge all the more powerfully, all the more triumphantly from the struggle.”

Nikola Tesla

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The American Legacy of the Cherokee Trail of Tears

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Depiction of the Cherokee Trail of Tears
Depiction of the Cherokee Trail of Tears

“Old Hickory” General Andrew Jackson won the nasty, negative election of 1828 and was elected to the White House.  At this time, over 125,000 Native Americans still occupied millions of acres in North Carolina, Tennessee, Georgia, Alabama, and Florida – land they’d lived on for generations. After the Trail of Tears, there’d be few left anywhere east of the Mississippi.  Frontier Americans both feared and resented the many southeastern tribes. To them, Indians were an alien race who occupied land white settlers believed they deserved.  They desperately wanted to grow cotton and other crops in the fertile soil of the south.

George Washington had believed the solution to “The Indian Problem” was to civilize the savage and make them as American as possible. This included conversion to Christianity, learning English, and adopting the principles of property ownership. In the southeastern US, some Cherokee, Creek, Choctaw, Chickasaw, and Seminole tribes took up white customs and became known as “The Five Civilized Tribes.”  But their land was still valuable, ever more so as thousands of white settlers continued to flood the southeast. Many white settlers did not care how “civilized” the tribes were.  They wanted that land and would do anything to get it. They burned and looted villages and squatted on property that belonged to those tribes.

The new populist President Jackson was a staunch advocate for “Indian Removal.”

As a General, he’d led brutal campaigns against the Creeks & Seminoles that transferred thousands of acres from Indians to white farmers. As President, Andrew Jackson continued this crusade as his solution to The Indian Problem. In 1830, he signed the INDIAN REMOVAL ACT, giving government the authority to exchange Native land in the southeast for land west of the Mississippi in the Oklahoma territory.  The new law did required fair, voluntary and peaceful removal treaties and did not permit forced removal of tribes from their land. Nevertheless, Jackson ignored the wording of the law and proceeded to force Native tribes to vacate their ancestral lands.

The forced displacement of Native Americans had some eloquent opposition in Congress. Senators Daniel Webster and Henry Clay both spoke out frequently against the removal.  President Jackson ignored them.  In the winter of 1831, the Choctaws became the first tribe to be expelled from their land by the US Army. They made the journey to Oklahoma on foot, some bound, marching double file at gunpoint, without any food, shelter or other help from the military. Thousands died along the way. It was just the beginning of what one newspaper called the Trail of Tears and Death.  While Jackson put a very positive and populist spin on ‘Indian Removal’ in his speeches, the actual removal was anything but. There was little the native tribes could do to defend themselves.

The Cherokees however chose to take legal action. They were by no means frontier savages. They’d developed their own written language, printed newspapers and elected representatives to their government.   When the state governments threatened to seize their land, the Cherokees took their case to the Supreme Court AND WON! a favorable decision. In 1832, the opinion of Court was that states had no jurisdiction over the Cherokee Nation or claim to their lands.

However state officials simply ignored the Supreme Court’s decision, and President Jackson refused to enforce it. He was furious and personally insulted by the Court’s ruling shouting:

“The Supreme Court has made their decision, now let them enforce it!”

U.S. President Andrew Jackson

So the encroachment continued unabated.  Jackson proclaimed that if no one enforced the Court’s rulings (and he certainly did not), then the decisions was in essence stillborn.  Jackson himself defied the court’s decision  and ordered further removal of Native Americans. Under orders from President Jackson, the U.S. Army began strict enforcement of the Indian Removal Act. This defiant action set a precedent the government would use for decades to come when the forced removal of indigenous people from their ancestral land was deemed ‘necessary.’

In 1835, representatives of the Cherokee Nation negotiated a Treaty which traded all Cherokee land in Georgia east of the Mississippi for $5 million dollars and relocation assistance. While the treaty was a done deal, many Cherokee felt betrayed by their representatives and refused to leave.  The removal process continued nonetheless. In 1836, the government forced the Creek Nation from their land. Over 3,500 of 15,000 Creeks would not survive the long, harsh journey west.

By 1838, only 2,000 Cherokees had left.  The President was fed up with the delay and sent 7,000 troops to “expedite the removal process.”  The soldiers forced the remaining Cherokee refugees into stockades at bayonet point while white settlers looted their villages. About 20,000 Cherokees marched westward at gunpoint more than 1,200 miles. Diseases, dysentery, and starvation were rampant along the way.  More than 5,000 Cherokee, nearly a quarter, would die, with the remainder left to seek survival in a territory totally foreign to them.

By then, the deed was done.

White Cherokee Rose
White Cherokee Rose growing along the Trail of Tears

U.S. Troops had forced tens of thousands of Native Americans off their lands. The government promised their new territory would remain untouched forever, but of course history tells us how that went.  As white settlers hungry for homesteads pushed westward across the Mississippi, “Indian Country” would shrink yet again. The Oklahoma Land Rush was just one example to come.

According to legend, the white Cherokee rose, the state flower of Georgia, grew everywhere a Cherokee tear fell on the sad Trail of Tears. The flowers continue to grow wildly along many of the trails the Native American tribes took on their long journey westward to Oklahoma reservations.

For more by historical writer Paul Andrews, click BOOKS.
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APOLLO 1 – The Forgotten First NASA Disaster

Astronauts Roger Chaffee, Ed White, and Gus Grissom in Apollo 1, 1967
Astronauts Roger Chaffee, Ed White, and Gus Grissom in Apollo 1, 1967

Everyone remembers the Challenger and Columbia Space Shuttle disasters. We all know the famous Apollo 11 Moon landing and the historic first steps of Neil Armstrong in 1969.  But few outside NASA recall the Apollo 1 Tragedy that happened just 2 years earlier.  On January 27, 1967, during a launch rehearsal at Cape Kennedy, a freak flash fire swept through the Apollo 1 command module with 3 astronauts sealed on board. The three men died inside, despite the best efforts of the launch crew to save them.  But how could this have happened on a simple practice run?

NASA had an intimidating goal before it, set by President Kennedy in 1961, “to land a man on the moon and return him safely to Earth” by the end of the decade. Earlier Mercury and Gemini flights were the first steps toward meeting that challenge. Apollo would take 3 astronauts all the way to the moon’s surface and back.

This first manned Apollo mission, designated AS-204, would be just an Earth-orbiting test flight.

The Commander was Virgil “Gus” Grissom, an Air Force veteran, mechanical engineer and one of NASA’s first Mercury Seven Astronauts. He was America’s 2nd person in space in 1961, riding aboard the Liberty Bell 7. Grissom then went on to successfully command Gemini 3, the first 2-man Gemini flight, before being selected by NASA for Apollo 1.

Another veteran astronaut, Ed White, was also chosen.  An Air Force Lt. Colonel test pilot, he was the 1st American to make a spacewalk, on Gemini 4 in 1965. The images of White floating above the curved blue Earth, linked by a skinny tether to the spacecraft are unforgettable, as are his words, “I’m coming back in, and it’s the saddest moment of my life.”

The third and last astronaut was Roger Chaffee a seasoned Navy lieutenant commander. Although a rookie in spaceflight, he had spent years supporting the Gemini program since 1963, including CapCom (Capsule Communications) on Gemini 4. He would now finally be getting his first chance to fly in space after five years of waiting.

Two weeks earlier, all 3 astronauts kissed their wives goodbye, hugged their kids, and left Houston for Cape Kennedy in Florida.  They would be taking part in a pre-launch test, within the Command Module mounted atop an unfueled Saturn 1B rocket on launch pad 34. Engineering changes were still in progress as NASA prepared for the test. The plan was to go through the entire countdown sequence.

On Friday, January 27th, the 3 astronauts climbed into their familiar silver space suits.

At 1 pm, they rode out to the launch tower and took the elevator to the top.  With the help of the launch crew, they climbed into their capsule.  The hatch was then sealed with a heavy ‘thud.’ A number of technical  problems cropped up immediately, which delayed the countdown for 4 hours.  Finally, a failure in communications forced a hold in the count at 5:40 p.m.  A frustrated Grissom shouted through the static, “How are we going to get to the Moon if we can’t talk between two buildings?”

By 6:31 pm, Launch Control was ready to pick up the countdown … when ground instruments showed an electrical surge in the AC voltage readings, possibly indicating a short-circuit in the capsule.  Four seconds later came frightening words from the Command Module over the speakers, almost casually from Chaffee: “I smell fire.”

Two seconds later, White reports louder, “We’ve got a fire in the cockpit.” The fire spreads throughout the small cabin in a matter of seconds. Chaffee shouts this time, “We have a bad fire!” followed by all three shouting as they struggled to get out. The last communication sadly ends 17 seconds after the start of the fire, followed by loss of all capsule telemetry.

The Apollo 1 hatch opened inward and was closed by several latches.  It was held tight by higher interior pressure and required venting before the hatch could be opened. It took a minute and a half to get the hatch open under ideal conditions.  Ed White, in the center seat, had to reach above and behind his shoulders to use a ratchet that would release the first of a series of latches. White made part of a turn with the ratchet before he was overcome by smoke.

Launch technicians ran towards the sealed command module as the capsule ruptured!

White flames and thick smoke billowed out, filling the enclosed entry room. Some feared the fire might set off the launch escape rocket attached atop Apollo’s nose. This might then ignite the launch tower. Many technicians ran, but others grabbed extinguishers and tried to rescue the astronauts. The intense heat and smoke kept forcing them back, but finally after 5 minutes, they opened the hatch. Firemen arrived within 3 minutes and doctors soon afterwards. Unfortunately, it was too late … the 3 astronauts had died.

The entire NASA community was in shock.  There had been NO fatalities during Mercury & Gemini. NASA impounded everything at the launch pad. A medical board eventually determined that the 3 astronauts died of asphyxia, with burns as a contributing factor. Fire had destroyed 70% of Grissom’s spacesuit, 20% of White’s and 15% of Chaffee’s. Doctors treated 27 men at the launch tower for smoke inhalation.

A NASA review board found a stray spark from damaged wires near Grissom’s seat started the fire. Fed by flammable materials such as nylon netting and foam pads, the blaze spread easily.  Because the cabin had been filled with 100% oxygen for many hours, the gas permeated all the material in the cabin.  The fire spread rapidly and the trapped astronauts had little chance of getting the hatch open.

Burnt interior of the Apollo 1 capsule
Burnt interior of the Apollo 1 capsule, 1967

The three men had perished probably within the first minute. Ed White, in the center seat, was found with his arms over his head as he struggled with the hatch.  And that hatch turned out to be too difficult to open in an emergency. The astronauts struggled in vain to crack the inward-opening door with the pressure inside the spacecraft higher.

The exhaustive investigation postponed any manned launch of the Saturn for nearly a year.

A number of changes were instigated in the Apollo program, including designing: a) a new hatch which opened outward and could be operated quickly in a matter of seconds, b) removing much of the flammable material and replacing it with self-extinguishing components, c) using a nitrogen-oxygen mixture instead of pure O2 at launch.

In the end, the resulting changes made the Apollo Command Module a highly reliable spacecraft.  With the exception of Apollo 13’s service module failure, it helped make the six Moon missions almost routine. The eventual success of the Apollo program is a tribute to Grissom, White, and Chaffee, whose tragic loss was not in vain.  Lessons learned from Apollo 1 stretch all the way to the Space Shuttle program, the International Space Station (ISS), and SpaceX.

The AS-204 mission was officially names “Apollo 1” in honor of the three astronauts.  NASA honors their sacrifice every January in an annual Day of Remembrance, which also includes the Challenger 1986 and Columbia 2003 Space Shuttle crews. An exhibit honoring the Apollo 1 crew opened at the Kennedy Space Center in 2017, with a special ceremony honoring the three astronauts on the 50th anniversary of the tragedy.

For more by historical writer Paul Andrews, click BOOKS.

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Podcast: Razor Tojo – Japan’s Adolf Hitler

 

Contrary to popular myth, Japan’s version of Adolf Hitler was not the Emperor Hirohito, but rather its infamous Minister of War, Hideki Razor Tojo. But who was this ruthless and powerful man so few outside Japan know of?  He rose to power in the 1930’s, began World War II in the Pacific, and was responsible for the deaths of millions of his own people and the Allies.

Japanese War Minister Hideki Razor Tojo
Japanese War Minister Hideki Razor Tojo
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Podcast: Five Reasons the Johnstown Flood Disaster should never have happened

The terrible Johnstown Flood of 1889 was more of a man-made Tsunami.  Yes, there was flooding at first. The ‘Storm of the Century‘ rains arrived in the deep Pennsylvania valley on Memorial Day, 1889. The two rivers that flanked the steel mill town began to swell.  But it wasn’t until the aging South Fork Dam burst that the REAL tragedy occurred. The dam, owned by a wealthy country club, held back the waters of Lake Conemaugh, just14 miles upriver from the unsuspecting people of Johnstown.

Depiction of the Johnstown Flood and Stone Bridge Fire, 1889
Depiction of the Johnstown Flood and Stone Bridge Fire, 1889
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Welcome to Centralia – the Town that Burned from Beneath

Centralia mine fire
Mine Fire erupts from Route 61 in Centralia, PA

If you drive north on Route 61 in northeastern Pennsylvania, U.S., you will come across an innocent looking detour at the top of a low mountain.  Thinking nothing of it, drivers follow the signs around something unseen, perhaps road construction up ahead or a bridge repair.  Upon closer inspection however, it seems to be a permanent closure of the road to Centralia. 

You’re soon back on the highway and greeted by an eerie site, the ghost town that is Centralia, Pennsylvania.  Vacant, weed-filled lots occupy a grid of empty streets.  Sidewalks remain, but all the houses are gone.  Here and there, tufts of grey smoke appear to be coming from the earth itself. In some cases, a ring of chain link fences circle the smoke holes.

What on earth could have caused the abandonment and demolition of an entire town?

In began innocuously enough in May 1962, when a careless trash fire was started in a landfill that was also an abandoned, coal strip mine. The fire department doused the pit with water for hours and they thought the fire was out.  Unfortunately, it was not. This is the Pennsylvania Coal Region, once home to hundreds of deep anthracite mines, now largely abandoned. The fire snaked underground along old coal veins, sucking in air and venting hot smoke up through cracks in the earth. 

Eventually, it followed those coal veins and slowly crept underneath quiet Centralia itself. The fire began venting poisonous gases up through the basements of homes and businesses.  With a slow horror, residents realized that the underground fire had reached their town.  Worse still, it could not be extinguished, or even burn itself out in the near future — not until ALL the coal under the mountain was removed or consumed.

The fire slowly worked its way under row after row of family homes and businesses. Vent holes of white smoke appeared in backyards. The threat of house fires, asphyxiation, and carbon monoxide poisoning became a daily fact of life. For the next two decades, the town attempted to battle the fire. The fire company flushed the mine holes with rivers of water. They excavated the burning veins and dug trenches. The state back-filling the vent holes to try and suffocate it. They dug AGAIN and AGAIN in an vain attempt to find the boundaries of the fire.

By the 1980s, the fire had affected over 200 acres of Centralia. Residents had to abandon their homes as carbon monoxide had reached life threatening levels inside.  A study concluded that the fire could burn for another 100 years or more and spread over 3,700 acres of the mountain.  The state government eventually became involved and declared Centralia municipalis non grata. Route 61 had to be permanently detoured around the borough.

Centralia was slowly abandoned, house by house, street by street.

Properties were condemned, citizens relocated, and their homes demolished, all costing about $42 million. The town hoped to dig a 500-foot deep trench completely across the hilltop on which Centralia sat, holding back the fire and saving half the town. To no one’s surprise, the expensive trench was never dug. A few die hard residents remained in their homes, their hopes pinned on continued efforts to contain the blaze. 

Ironically today, the Centralia Fire Department is the only modern building still remaining, along with two houses. The Assumption BVM Church sits up on the mountain side overlooking the ghost town.  522 homes are gone in all.  The hillsides are peppered with holes spewing noxious gases.  Large cracks and pits make most streets through town undrivable. Though there are no visible flames, you can feel the heat radiating from the breaches in the earth.  Tall metal pipes emerge from the ground about 8 feet tall, ringed by small protective fences. In winter, like the geysers at Yellowstone National Park, snow never sticks because the ground is too warm around the smoke vents. 

Over 62 years and 42 million dollars later, the fire still burns on several fronts underneath Centralia and the surrounding mountain.  But the cracked sidewalks, vacant streets and empty, weed-filled plots remain, along with a handful of aging holdouts.  By 2000, the fire had moved into Saints Peter and Paul Cemetery, with white smoke eerily wafting up around the silent, grey tombstones.  In 2004, the PA Department of Environmental Protection explicitly discouraged visitors from stopping in and exploring Centralia.

Graffiti Highway in Centralia, PA
Graffiti Highway in Centralia, PA before being buried.

Curious people like myself irresistibly come anyway, renaming it Helltown USA, drawn to the eerie, empty streets, peppered with fissures oozing white smoke.  Thousands of visitors covered the old road into town with graphic graffiti becoming Graffiti Highway.  A PBS Documentary on the mine fire was made in 1982, interviewing several Centralia residents. In 2013, the seven remaining elderly residents reached an agreement with the state allowing them to remain in their beloved homes until they died.  By 2020 only 5 remained. That same year, Graffiti Highway was sadly covered with a thick layer of dirt, ending a decades-long attraction.

I grew up just a few miles from Centralia, Pennsylvania. As a young boy, I witnessed the citizens rebellion against the state, the sad evacuations of homes, and the slow demolition of this quaint little mountain town. The poor residents certainly did not deserve this unfortunate end.  But when mankind plays recklessly with nature’s resources, leaving a hazardous mess behind, nature has a way of fighting back.

For more by historical writer Paul Andrews, click BOOKS
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Orson Welles’ 1938 Halloween Radio Play Panicked America

Headline of War of the Worlds radio play panic
Headline of War of the Worlds radio play panic. 1938

Actor and producer Orson Welles caused a nationwide panic in the U.S. when he broadcast his “War of the Worlds” radio play on Sunday night, October 30, 1938.  It was so realistic, listeners who tuned in late after 8:00 PM thought they were hearing horrifying news accounts of an actual Martian invasion of Earth! There was no television yet in the 1930s. 

Welles was only 23 years old when his Mercury Theater Company decided to present a modernized version of H.G. Wells’ classic science fiction novel on CBS Radio. It would be take place in the present, however, rather than last century.  His Mercury Theatre on the Air had already put on successful radio plays of Julius Caesar and Oliver Twist.  Welles was already internationally famous in radio as the sinister baritone voice of “The Shadow,” a hit mystery program.

Sunday evenings in the 1930’s were prime-time in Radio’s Golden Age of listeners.  Millions of Americans had their large console radios tuned in, with the entire family gathered around. If you happened to tune in late and miss the introduction of the play, Welles’ program began innocently enough, with peppy Big Band dance music, supposedly from the Hotel Park Plaza in New York City.

But then an announcer broke in to report that a college professor watching at an observatory had detected strange explosions on the red planet Mars, earth’s neighbor. This was followed by another yet urgent interruption in which listeners were told a large meteor had just crashed into a farm in Grovers Mills, New Jersey near Princeton!  Then came more infuriating dance music as the audience listened and waited.

Soon, a breathless announcer claimed to be at the crash site, along with the National Guard.  He described in great detail a metallic, cylindrical Spaceship with a hideous Martian emerging!!

The Martian War Machine then fired a “heat-ray” disintegrating the reporter and all 7,000 National Guardsman!  The radio went deadly silent for an entire minute.  Next, another voice somberly announced the deaths in Grover’s Mill and reported that other “Martian cylinders” were now landing in Chicago, Buffalo and St. Louis!  More National Guard troops were being deployed. Oh my God! listeners thought,  IT’S AN INVASION!  The radio actors were VERY good at their job, portraying terrified announcers and using plenty of creepy alien sound effects. Announcers reported widespread panic had broken out in all major US cities, with thousands of families desperately trying to flee the oncoming Martian havoc.

In fact, that’s what was exactly happening. The United States was already on nervous edge, with news of Adolf Hitler’s Nazi Army threatening yet another world war in Europe.  As many as a million radio listeners believed that a Real Martian Invasion was actually occurring. Panic broke out across the country with terrified families jamming the highways to escape the cities, calling confused police departments and begging for gas masks.  Others showed up with rifles and shotguns, ready to fight and defend America against the Martians. 

Phones began ringing constantly at the CBS Radio Studio in New York City.  When news of the real-life panic reached Welles in the studio, he was shocked.  He personally went on the air and broke into the show to remind listeners that it was just a radio play, and that none of it was real.  The spell was broken for those listening.  For those already fleeing, the news would slowly trickle in. Can you imagine the reaction?  As word reached the streets, confused and beleaguered Americans turned around and went back to their homes.

Orson Welles and the Press following War or the Worlds Radio Play
Orson Welles with the Press following War or the Worlds Radio Play panic. 1938

That night, mayors across America wanted Welles’ head and the police wanted him arrested. They stormed the CBS Radio Studio in Manhattan wanting to “punch him in the kisser.”  The entire cast and producers sneaked out of the building via a rear exit.  The next day (Halloween by chance), a bewildered-looking Orson Welles held a quick press conference.  He stated he never had any intention of deceiving people or inciting a panic.  He was just trying to put on a good show for his loyal audience.  In fact, the arrogant and ego-centric Welles was quite thrilled with the panic he caused and soaked up the national attention.

As the saying goes, there is no such thing as bad publicity.  The fame helped land young Orson Welles a lucrative movie contract in Hollywood, California.  He soon left New York and radio behind for a lucrative career in motion pictures.  Say what you will of the man, you cannot deny his talent.  Just two years later, he directed, co-wrote, produced, and starred in the Academy Award winning movie Citizen Kane.  To this day it is hailed as one of the greatest films ever made.  It received nine Oscar nominations and won him an award for Best Screenplay.  We was quite the skilled story teller and went on to make 17 more films.

For more by historical writer Paul Andrews, click BOOKS.

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Podcast: The Tragic Fate of the SS St. Louis Jewish Refugees

In May 1939, 937 anxious Jewish refugees fled the horrors of Nazi Germany, aboard an ocean liner named the SS St. Louis. Most were German citizens, with Jews from other countries like Poland and Austria. The passengers planned to reach Cuba first, then ultimately seek sanctuary the United States.  They would tragically never make it.

Two Jewish children aboard the SS St. Louis in Havana
Two Jewish children aboard the SS St. Louis in Havana, Cuba
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Podcast: The American Legacy of the Cherokee Trail of Tears

General Andrew Jackson won the nasty election of 1828 and was elected President of the United States.  At this time, over 125,000 Native Americans still occupied millions of acres in the American southeast – land they had lived on for generations.  In a little over a decade, thanks the Indian Removal Act, there would be few left alive anywhere east of the Mississippi River.  Many would have died along the Trail of Tears.

Depiction of the Cherokee Trail of Tears
Depiction of the Cherokee Trail of Tears
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